Sunday, April 17, 2011

Flash Photo- thoughts and tips

I find getting a really well lit, not burned out flash photography really tough.  It's super easy to use the built in flashes on most cameras, but you tend to get the 'you used a flash look' and I want something more natural, softer shadows, better highlights, less burn.  I have so much that I toss when I use a flash as it's too harsh.  I am trying to catch my kids indoors and find even then the flash can be too much.  The picture to the left is my daughter, S, just after she lost her first tooth.  Well lit sure, over lit and no natural shadows yes that too.  See the harsh shadow under her chin?  That's not what I want.  A flash is meant to simulate the sun, and when the sun is bright out you get harsh lighting like this but when it's over cast you can get more true color, and a much more flattering light.  So after doing some reading on the net (just like you're doing now) I started to see that straight flash was the issue and that tools were needed.   Tools that photographers use in the studio to diffuse the string strobe lights are also made small for on board flash.  Studio lighting is best as you have more than one light source allowing for compelling shadows and textures but well I can't afford fancy lights right now so I until I can get some used, on board flash is my tool. 

That begs the question what tools and how to use them.  I started out with a small soft box, and man it helps.  A small $10 item (soft box) and some happy results for me.  There is also the availability of a bounce flash, which as you can see below works fabulously- in horizontal.  Unless you happen to have a really cool Speedlight (external flash) that rotates (580 EX Speedlight) but those are expensive and super powerful.  I used a Canon 270 EX Speedlight here.


Look at the wall and the shadow the crucifix casts.  The head on flash is harsh and stark.  Very noticeable so much so the shadow becomes part of the photograph.  Now look at the soft box or the bounce flash, the shadows provide soft texture to the subject without themselves becoming a subject themselves like in the head on flash.







Each flash requires practice to use it properly.  You need to adjust your shutter and F-stop to control the amount of light coming into the camera.  If your flash has ETTL you can also control the amount of power supplied to the flash.  That is trickier for me personally and am currently working on that.  There is always room for improvement and learning in photography.  Those that say there isn't aren't pro's and don't know squat ;-).  So how did the soft box work for people or still life?  Check these out...
  My spouse and the fat cat.  Well lit and soft shadows.  It's the direction I want to head into.  I have much more work to do tho.


No comments:

Post a Comment